Wood You is a Certified Real Wood Retailer. Real Wood Furniture Finished Your Way guarantees absolutely no particle board in the manufacturing of its products.

Design Your Own Finish

Milk Paints ● Application of Milk Paints ● Furniture Glazes ●
● Application of Water Base Top Coats ● Gel Stains ● Application of Oil Based Gel Stains

Milk Paints

General Finishes Milk Paint for Furniture

Milk Paints are the star of the furniture fashion market. They are interior/exterior acrylic paints suitable for indoor or outdoor furniture, crafts, and cabinets and can be applied directly from the can to produce a high quality satin sheen finish. When used with Glaze Effects, you can create all the new decorative finishes such as distressing, antiquing, marble effects, rag rolling, or color washing. Paint on high use flat surfaces such as dining tables and desks will develop the patina of every day life over time so we recommend clear or wood stain finishes to our customers who are do not enjoy this natural antiquing process. Milk Paints are available in the following colors: Snow White, Antique White, Linen, Millstone, Outback Brown, Little Pink, Buttermilk Yellow, Somerset Gold, Sage Green, Bayberry Green, Basil, Cypress Green, Red Pepper, Autumn Haze, Brick Red, Tuscan Red, Baby Blue, Federal Blue, Coastal Blue and Lamp Black.

snow white furniture milk paint manufactured by General Finishes

antique white furniture milk paint manufactured by General Finishes

buttermilk yellow furniture milk paint manufactured by General Finishes

sage green furniture milk paint manufactured by General Finishes

basil green furniture milk paint manufactured by General Finishes

brick red furniture milk paint manufactured by General Finishes

tuscan red furniture milk paint manufactured by General Finishes

federal blue furniture milk paint manufactured by General Finishes

lamp black furniture milk paint manufactured by General Finishes

Application of Milk Paints

Remove hardware from furniture. Taking a little extra time to remove backs of cabinets, drawer fronts etc., will make staining much easier. Milk Paints may be intermixed to create additional colors. Snow White or Antique White will soften darker colors.
If working in high temperatures or low humidity, Milk Paints may be thinned with 10-20% water or General Finishes Extender (3 to 6 oz. per quart) to improve open time for application.
If working over existing paint or finish, always test a small area to make sure paint will adhere. Sand glossy surfaces with #120 grit sandpaper before proceeding.
Make disposable paint trays by covering paper plates with aluminum foil.
Test the color on the underside of the project. It is your responsibility to insure that the color is what you want.
Always stir the contents well. Stirring distributes pigments that have settled to the bottom of the can.
Paint on a wet, liberal coat with a wide foam brush, bristle brush, or paint pad applicator. If too little paint is used, the surface can dry too quickly causing an uneven appearance.
Dry time is normally 2-4 hours under ideal conditions (70˚ and 70% humidity). Cooler temperatures or higher humidity will prolong dry time to 8-10 hours. Good ventilation, air movement and higher temperatures will accelerate dry time.
We recommend two to three coats of paint. If paint is not covering after 2 coats, you are not applying heavily enough. If using different colors of Milk Paint over one another (i.e.-when creating antique finishes) always apply a coat of Top Coat in between the colors to prevent color blending.
Buff between each coat of Milk Paint with a superfine sanding sponge, #320 or #400 grit sandpaper.
Milk Paint dries with a low luster sheen. Although it can be used as a one-can finish, we recommend one application of Water Based Top Coat for increased durability or increased sheen. It is not necessary to buff after applying final Top Coat.
Milk Paints are rated for exterior use, and do not require a Top Coat when used in outdoor applications. General Finishes water based Top Coats are not intended for exterior use.

Top Coats

Water Based Brush On Top Coat.

For optional use over Milk Paints, this crystal clear finish is rated by Fine Woodworking magazine as "Best Brush-on" in a competition of national brands. It is our standard "work horse" top coat and can be used in furniture and woodwork. Formulated to be durable and consumer friendly, it flows and levels easily and has great adhesion characteristics. It has strong sag resistance for vertical surfaces and its higher polyurethane content provides greater durability than other polyurethane/acrylic blends. Once you use PolyAcrylic Blend you will say to yourself, "Fine Woodworking was right on!" Available in the following sheens, Matte, Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss.

Application of Water Based Top Coats

If you are applying Water Based Top Coat over an oil based stain, allow the oil stain to dry a minimum of 48 hours under ideal conditions.
Water based top Coats are milky white in the can, but will dry to a crystal clear finish. Stir contents well to insure that all the ingredients are mixed together.
Apply with a foam brush, latex paint pad applicator, or by spraying.
Apply Top Coats liberally using smooth even strokes working in the direction of the grain. Use enough material to provide a wet film. Do not over brush! Top Coats self level beautifully.
When used over Water Based Stains, Top Coats have ?burn in? characteristics and may slightly lift some of the color during the application of the first coat (particularly red colors).
On most projects three or four coats of Top Coat is just right. On projects receiving extra wear such as table and desk tops, additional coats will add more protection.
Dry time is normally 2-4 hours under ideal conditions (70˚ and 70% humidity).
Cooler temperatures or higher humidity will prolong dry time to 8-10 hours.
Good ventilation, air movement and higher temperatures will accelerate dry time.

Buffing Top Coats

Do not buff the stain prior to the first application Top Coat.
It is important to buff in between each application of Top Coat for the smoothest possible finish with #320 or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge. It is not necessary to buff final Top Coat.
Remove dust with a clean cloth.

Oil Based Gel Stains

This is the stain that has the most "finishing feel" of all our products. Woodworkers love the lustrous finish that shows up when rubbing out the 2nd and 3rd coats. Gel Stains are formulated with a combination of pigments, oils, and urethanes to produce a durable and beautiful "hand-rubbed" finish. Gel Stains are heavy-bodied, and so do not penetrate as deeply into the wood as liquid oil base stains do. Because of this, they are often less affected by the condition of the wood, and can help you get a more even appearance on difficult woods such as aspen or pine. These easy-to-use stains simply wipe on with a cloth or applied with a foam brush (no spills or splashes). Gel Stains are available in: Golden Pine, New Pine, Prairie Wheat, Colonial Maple, American Oak, Candlelite, Nutmeg, Antique Walnut, Brown Mahogany, Georgian Cherry, and Java.

Application of Oil Based Gel Stains

Caution: If finishing an unassembled piece of furniture prior to assembly, care must be taken to avoid getting stain on the areas of the joints. Glue will not stick to surfaces that have finish on them.

		Using a cloth, foam brush or paint pad applicator, apply a liberal amount of Gel Stain to the area of raw wood you are working. Divide your project into sections: drawer front, table or cabinet top, side of chest, etc. Keep the area wet with product while applying. Wipe away the excess with clean cloths or paper toweling and rub out the stain until the color is even, applying light pressure with your hand until the first layer of stain evens out in color. As the first coat of stain dries, the appearance will be dull or dry. Take heart, the beauty of the wood will come alive as you add subsequent layers of color and top coats.
		Additional coats of stain may be applied for a deeper, richer color. This photo shows a second coat of Java being applied over the first coat of Java.
		Sanding between coats of any stain or top coat is referred to as Buffing. We do not recommend buffing between coats of stain because you may remove an area of stain that cannot be re-blended. If you must buff because you have imperfections that need to be smoothed out, do so with caution using a superfine sanding pad or #320 sandpaper.
		On the second or third coats of stain, wipe off the excess stain using a clean cloth or paper toweling the direction of the grain. Again, apply light pressure with your hand until the color is evened out, finishing with a polishing motion always in the direction of the grain. Tip: Keep extra wiping cloths nearby as you work, replacing them as needed until you remove all excess gel stain. Be sure to remove all rag marks and smudges, turning and changing cloths as needed. Several thin coats will give a better result.
		Continue to turn the cloth to a clean side as you work. On your last few passes across the surface, use a lighter polishing motion, continuing to work in the direction of the grain. When you achieve the depth of color desired, it is time to move on to optional top coats.
		Tip: Use an old dry bristle brush to remove stain buildup from the corners of molding, bead board, etc.
		Continue to turn the cloth to a clean side as you work. On your last few passes across the surface, use a lighter polishing motion, continuing to work in the direction of the grain. When you achieve the depth of color desired, it is time to move on to optional top coats. Tip: Protect any wet surfaces that you may handle by using a dry cloth.
		The stain itself contains top coat material and can be used as a one can finish.　If using a gel stain as a one can finish, we recommend using at least 2-3 coats. For maximum durability,　apply Gel Topcoat over Gel Stain. Apply top coat with a cloth, paint pad or foam brush. Shown here: application using paper toweling.
		When applying topcoats, your application process turns into a very light, brisk polishing motion with long light sweeping strokes, as the Top Coats glide along the smoother surface of the previous stain coats. Several thin coats give the best result.
		Buff lightly between each top coat with a super fine sanding pad or #320 sand paper. Do not buff the final topcoat. Sanding pads are far superior to sand paper as they form around moldings and corners and they last a long time. We like using a well-worn pad on the last few coats of top coat to promote a fine finish. Tip: If your super fine sanding pad is new, use it on raw wood first when working with the final finish coat.
		Vacuum after buffing each layer of top coat.
		Last step - start admiring your beautiful furniture.

Dry time: Wipe-on Liquid Stains and Top Coats can dry in 6-8 hours under ideal conditions (70˚ - 75% humidity). Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may extend the time needed for drying up to 12-24 hours or longer. Basements, even with a furnace, fireplace, and dehumidifier, are the worst environments for drying. Provide good ventilation and air movement with a fan to greatly improve dry time. If a stain coat is dry, you should be able to wipe your hand across the surface without feeling any tackiness. If your top coat is dry, sanding will produce a white powder.
Maintenance and Care: It's important to let your final coat cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your project sooner, just treat it with special care during the curing period. To maintain the finish use General Finishes Orange Oil or just a damp cloth. Paste wax is not recommended, because it builds up and yellows, thus becoming a maintenance problem.
To rejuvenate an old dull finish, simply clean surface well with mineral sprits and '0000' steel wool and apply one of General Finishes Top Coats. Cure Time
Use caution in disposal of oil based waste materials!!!! When using oil based finishes, take careful precautions when disposing of waste products. Rags, steel wool or other waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Never leave application materials indoors. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in sealed, water filled, metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.